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Knitting reference guide

How to Read Knitting Patterns: A Beginner’s Step-by-Step Decoder

Decode materials, gauge, abbreviations, row instructions, repeats, charts, sizing, regional terminology, and finishing before the first stitch goes on your needle.

Beginner GuidesKnitting referenceU.S. terms

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A pattern is a set of decisions written in shorthand

A knitting pattern tells you what to make, which materials and size to use, how many stitches to begin with, what to do on each row or round, and how to finish the fabric. The shorthand becomes manageable when you read the pattern in layers instead of trying to decode the entire page at once.

Begin with the project overview and finished measurements. Check the yarn, needle sizes, notions, gauge, and skill level. Read the abbreviation and special-stitch notes. Only then move into the row-by-row instructions or chart. Finish by reading the seaming, blocking, and assembly directions before casting on.

Printed knitting pattern beside a cream knitted swatch, bamboo needles, and a pencil used to track rows on a light wooden table.
A pattern becomes easier to follow when the instructions, swatch, and row tracker stay together.
Pattern structureSix information layers

Overview, sizing, materials, gauge, instructions, and finishing.

Foundation termsCO, BO, k, p, st(s)

Learn the frequent terms and use the pattern key for everything else.

Repeat markers*, [ ], { }, ( )

Their exact use depends on the publisher’s notes.

Flat chartsAlternate direction

RS right-to-left; WS left-to-right unless stated otherwise.

Sizing controlGauge + measurements

Match the pattern gauge and follow one size column consistently.

Best habitRead before casting on

A five-minute pre-read prevents late surprises.

On this page

Part 1

Find the information before following the instructions

Knitting pattern pages arranged beside yarn, needles, a gauge swatch, and removable page tabs marking the materials, gauge, abbreviations, instructions, and finishing sections.
Most patterns repeat the same information architecture even when the project looks completely different.
SectionWhat to confirmWhy it matters
Overview and skill levelConstruction, techniques, intended difficultyShows whether the project matches your current skills.
Sizes and finished measurementsActual garment or object dimensions, ease, lengthPrevents choosing a size from a body label alone.
MaterialsYarn weight, meterage, needle sizes, notionsReveals extra needles, holders, markers, buttons, or waste yarn.
GaugeStitches, rows, measurement, stitch pattern, blocked or unblockedControls size and fabric density.
Abbreviations and notesSpecial stitches, chart conventions, turning or joining methodThe pattern’s definitions override assumptions.
Instructions and finishingRows, rounds, charts, shaping, seaming, blockingShows the full construction sequence before you commit.

Part 2

Learn the abbreviations that control most beginner patterns

AbbreviationMeaningAction or purpose
COCast onPlace starting stitches on the needle.
BOBind offFinish an edge and remove live stitches.
kKnitWork a knit stitch.
pPurlWork a purl stitch.
st(s)Stitch(es)The live loops or counted units.
RS / WSRight side / wrong sidePublic face and reverse face of flat knitting.
repRepeatWork a stated sequence again.
rndRoundA complete circuit in circular knitting.
yoYarn overCreate an extra loop, usually an increase and eyelet.
k2togKnit 2 togetherSingle right-leaning decrease.
sskSlip, slip, knitCommon single left-leaning decrease.
M1L / M1RMake 1 left / rightDirectional increases; follow the pattern definition.
sl1Slip 1Move one stitch without working it; check knitwise or purlwise.
wyif / wyibWith yarn in front / backPosition yarn before slipping or working a stitch.
pm / smPlace marker / slip markerAdd or move a marker without counting it as a stitch.
tblThrough back loopWork through the back loop, often twisting the stitch.
beg / remBeginning / remainingLocation or stitches left.
pattPatternContinue the established stitch pattern.

Part 3

Read one line as row, side, sequence, endpoint, count

CO 18 sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K2, P2; rep from * across, end K2.

CO 18 sts establishes the row width. Row 1 identifies the row. (RS) marks the public side. The asterisk begins a repeat. Work K2, P2 until only two stitches remain, then K2. The repeat consumes 16 stitches and the final K2 consumes the last two, for 18 stitches total.

When a row ends with a stitch count—such as (42 sts)—count before continuing. That number is a checkpoint, not an optional note. After an increase or decrease row, it is often the fastest way to catch a missed shaping instruction.

Part 4

Repeat symbols save space but must preserve the stitch count

NotationTypical meaningWhat to check
* ... ; rep from *Repeat from the asterisk as directed.Look for “to end,” “to last N sts,” or a stated number of repeats.
[ ... ] × 5Repeat the bracketed group exactly five times.Multiply the stitches inside by five.
{ ... } × 3Another grouped repeat used by some publishers.Follow the publisher’s convention.
( ... )May group a repeat, show stitch counts, or hold size numbers.Read the notes and surrounding sentence before deciding.

Part 5

Treat the chart as a map of the fabric

Knitting chart beside the textured swatch it represents, with a removable row marker aligned to the current chart row.
Read the chart from the bottom upward and let the pattern key define every symbol.
  • Start at the bottom. Chart Row 1 is normally the lowest numbered row.
  • Flat knitting alternates direction. Read RS rows right to left and WS rows left to right unless the pattern states another convention.
  • Circular charts usually stay right to left. Every round is worked from the public side.
  • The key controls the action. A blank box can mean different things in different charts.
  • Repeat borders matter. Heavy lines or colored outlines often mark the section repeated across a row.

Part 6

Check regional wording and publisher-specific conventions

Term ACommon alternativeMeaning
Bind offCast offFinish an edge and remove live stitches.
GaugeTensionStitches and rows per stated measurement.
Stockinette stitchStocking stitchKnit on RS and purl on WS when worked flat.
Yarn overyfwd, yon, or yrn in some patternsYarn movement varies with stitch context; use the key.
BOCast off written in full or other abbreviationDo not assume the abbreviation without checking.

Part 7

Use gauge and measurements to protect the final size

Blocked stockinette gauge swatch measured across the center with a rigid ruler and knitting needles resting nearby.
Measure a relaxed, blocked swatch away from the cast-on, bind-off, and side edges.
  1. Make the swatch larger than the measurement area.
  2. Use the stitch pattern named in the gauge note.
  3. Wash or block it as the finished project will be treated.
  4. Measure the center, away from edges and needles.
  5. Change needle size when stitch gauge is wrong, then swatch again.
  6. Record the needle, yarn, washed gauge, and fabric feel.

More stitches per measurement means your stitches are smaller than the target; test a larger needle. Fewer stitches means your stitches are larger; test a smaller needle. Row gauge matters especially when shaping is written by row count rather than by length.

Part 8

Track shaping, pattern rows, and “at the same time” instructions separately

Hands knitting cream yarn while a finger and removable marker track the current line on a printed pattern.
Mark the active row and record the last completed row before putting the project away.
1

Write the active row number. Mark the row before knitting it, then mark it complete afterward.

2

Use separate counters. One can track a cable or lace repeat while another tracks shaping rows.

3

Record stitch counts. Write the expected count beside every increase or decrease row.

4

Pause at construction changes. Re-read before dividing sleeves, placing stitches on hold, picking up edges, or joining in the round.

Troubleshooting

Six errors that make a correct pattern look impossible

Starting before reading the notes

Special stitches, chart direction, and size conventions may be defined before the instructions.

Following the wrong size column

Highlight one position in every multi-size group and confirm it against the finished measurements.

Skipping stitch-count checkpoints

Count after every shaping row before the error is repeated across later rows.

Assuming a familiar abbreviation

A designer may define a special increase, decrease, or cable differently.

Reading a flat chart in one direction

Wrong-side rows usually reverse direction; circular charts normally do not.

Ignoring published errata

When the arithmetic remains impossible after careful checking, look for an official correction.

Smart reading

Five habits that make every pattern calmer

  • Keep a working copy. Mark a printout or permitted digital copy without altering the original file.
  • Highlight only your size. Reduce visual noise before casting on.
  • Keep an abbreviation reference nearby. Look up terms instead of guessing.
  • Write the last completed row before stopping. Do not rely on memory.
  • Choose a short repeat first. A scarf or washcloth lets you practise pattern language without complicated shaping.

Common questions

How to read knitting patterns FAQ

1. What should I read first in a knitting pattern?

Read the overview, size information, finished measurements, materials, gauge, abbreviation key, and notes before the first instruction row. Then scan the finishing section. This pre-read reveals special needles, held stitches, charts, seaming, or techniques that may not appear until later.

2. Do I need to memorize every knitting abbreviation?

No. Learn the common foundation terms such as CO, BO, k, p, st(s), RS, WS, and rep. Keep the pattern’s own abbreviation and special-stitch notes nearby because designers may define project-specific terms.

3. How do asterisks, brackets, and parentheses work?

An asterisk usually marks the beginning of a repeat that continues as directed. Brackets or braces normally group instructions to repeat a stated number of times. Parentheses may group a repeat, show stitch counts, or contain size-specific numbers. The pattern’s notes control when a publisher uses these symbols differently.

4. Which direction do I read a knitting chart?

For flat knitting, charts are usually read from the bottom upward, right to left on right-side rows and left to right on wrong-side rows. For circular knitting, every chart round is generally read right to left. Always use the chart key because symbols may describe how a stitch appears from the public side rather than the physical action on every row.

5. What does “work even” mean?

Work even means continue in the established stitch pattern without adding or removing stitches. Maintain the current stitch count until the piece reaches the stated row count or measurement. “Work straight” is often used with the same meaning.

6. What does “at the same time” mean?

It means two instruction tracks overlap. You may need to continue armhole decreases while also beginning neckline shaping, for example. Mark both schedules separately and check them at the end of every row so one sequence does not replace the other.

7. How can I tell whether a pattern is suitable for a beginner?

Look for a Basic or Easy skill level, a short abbreviation list, a small number of repeating rows, familiar cast-on and bind-off methods, minimal shaping, and clear stitch counts. Read the full technique list rather than relying only on the finished photograph.

You can read this

Translate one instruction, check one count, and finish one row at a time

A knitting pattern is not a test of memory. It is a reference document. Use the abbreviation key, circle your size, check the chart key, count after shaping, and write down your progress.

Start with a short pattern whose techniques you already know. The language becomes familiar through repeated use, not through memorizing every abbreviation before you begin.

Happy knitting,
— Sophie

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Keep the decoder beside your pattern